Aluminum is one of the most used metals in today’s society – Aluminium Z Section in Popular it can be found across a number of industries, such as construction and commercial, and in a number of applications, such as beverage cans and appliances. When choosing a manufacturer of aluminium extrusion for supplying the metal that you use in your workplace, however, it is important that you carefully consider which one will be best for your needs.
The manufacturer will begin by removing the aluminium from deep within the earth’s crust (either as bauxite ore or feldspar). Often, the Bayer’s method, Wohler’s method or Hall Heroult method is chosen to remove the metal in its molten form. It is then hardened and moulded into whatever shape the manufacturer desires. When the aluminium is extracted from the earth in its solid form, Aluminum Cabinet Frame Extrusions it will be passed through a number of mechanical processes that are designed to give the metal its desired shape. These processes include: rolling, drawing, forging, spinning, piercing and extrusion.
Regardless of whether aluminium has been found in its molten or solid form, the manufacturer will then pass it through either a hot working or cold working process to prepare it for their customers. When using the hot working process (the most popular of the two), a billet will be heated to a temperature of over 79 degrees Celsius, which will allow the aluminium to be easily distorted and placed into its desired shape.
The reason for the popularity of the hot working process over the cold working one can be fully realized when you compare aluminium extrusion to squeezing toothpaste out of its tube. It is much easier to extrude the metal when it is malleable, meaning that it must have been heated to a certain temperature.
Finally, the aluminium will pass through an extrusion and drawing process that runs almost parallel to each other. This is the final step in the whole extrusion process and is the step that gives the metal its entire shape. Deep drawing, for example, is used give the metal a cup, conical tapered, cylinder and seamless tube shape. For less curved shapes, Aluminum Extrusion Framing the drawing process is skipped.
Once you are satisfied with the processes and methods utilized by a potential manufacturer of aluminium extrusions, you can begin submitting your orders with them. If, after your first delivery, you are still satisfied with the manufacturer based on the promptness of the order being filled and the quality of the aluminium that you receive, you can continue the relationship.
Aluminium Z Section in Popular?
In our past articles I talked about all the steps required to properly replace your old wood sash windows with energy efficient vinyl windows. I told you how to measure for the new windows. Then we discussed the removal of the wood sashes and parting bead. Finally, I told you how to install, seal, and trim the vinyl replacement windows. But, what if those old windows in your home are made of aluminum instead of wood? Is the process the same? No, it's not the same at all. So, the next few articles are going to explain the differences between replacing wood windows versus aluminum windows.
When discussing the proper frame style for replacing the wood sash windows, I explained the difference between new construction frames versus replacement frames. When replacing aluminum windows, there is another option we have to consider regarding frame style. It's called a "retrofit" frame. Let's go over each frame type. First, we have the new construction frame with the nailing fin. If you choose to go this route, you have to remove the exterior around each window opening, pull out the nails holding the aluminum window to the studs, nail in the new vinyl window, apply flashing, caulk, and re-install the exterior around each window.(I get tired just talking about it!)In addition to being a whole lot of labor, you can run into major problems trying to install the exterior product around each window opening. If your home has stucco, you have to try and match the rest of the stucco. It can be done, but not by you. Even most professional stucco guys can't get a perfect match. What if you have wood siding? Well, you can cut away 2" of the siding around each window to get to the nail fin, then you can apply 1 X 2 or 1 X 3 trim around each window. Certainly not as much work as the stucco home, but probably more work than the average homeowner cares to tackle. What if each window is surrounded by brick? Let's not even go there! You would have to remove the bricks, then re-install them all when finished.
Trust me, you don't want to replace your old aluminum windows with new construction vinyl windows. You want to use either the replacement frame like the one used to replace the wood sash windows, or something called a retrofit frame, that is popular in the west where stucco is a common exterior. Since the procedure for measuring is the same regardless of the frame style chosen, this article will discuss the proper measuring procedure, and future articles will explain the difference in the installation process for replacement versus retrofit.
If you look at the portion of the aluminum frame that goes around the window opening into your surrounding walls, you will see three separate "legs" that form two pockets. The outside leg and the center leg form the first pocket. Your screen and stationary panel will be in this pocket. The center leg and inside leg form the second pocket, and your sliding panel is in that pocket. Find the "leg" that is the widest on all four sides. When measuring the width, run your tape measure from the widest leg on the left to the widest leg on the right. This should be the narrowest measurement. Then, subtract 3/8" from that measurement. This is the width of the replacement window. Measure the height the same way. When measuring the height, measure as close to the center of the window as possible. This is especially important on windows wider than six feet, because the top wood header has a tendency to sag over time, making the center of the opening the narrowest. You don't need to deduct 3/8" from the height like you did on the width. 1/4" is fine. These are the dimensions you use when ordering your vinyl window. If you have any picture windows(windows without a vent panel), there will only be two legs and one pocket. You still measure the same way.
Next week I will discuss whether your home is a candidate for retrofit frames or replacement frames...
Aluminium Extrusion Manufacturing Process
Having lived with all three types of windows and patio doors in the past three years, I feel that I am an 'expert user' when it comes to opening and closing in each medium: wood, pvc and aluminium.
First, the novice's choice: wood. It looks great, feels warm, can be stained a medium or dark shade or painted any colour of the spectrum. It's an age-old medium so what can go wrong? The main problems are humidity and strong sunlight.
There are varying qualities of wood on offer, depending on your budget. A moderately-priced pair of French doors on a south-facing house wall suffered a degree of warping, creating gaps that had to be plugged each winter in an attempt to keep the cold draughts at bay whereas, in warmer damp circumstances, the door had to be forcibly pushed and pulled back into its aperture.
Two good summers and the four coats of varnish had virtually vapourised, revealing cracking wood that needed nourishing and protecting from the next couple of years' weather.
Second, the double-glazing salesman's special offer: PVC. Overpriced by a couple of well-known companies who then discount by 50% if you hesitate, PVC is also available in varying qualities. At the higher end of the market, the frames are often reinforced with metal.
Generally with more features than wooden doors and windows, PVC should not require much more than a quick wipe with a damp cloth for the first few years and its looks are therefore easier to maintain. We have some PVC French Doors from the lower price range. As value for money, they are quite good but an element of trust is lacking in terms of defence against determined intruders. They feel floppy and flimsy when opening and closing and there's a knack to locking and unlocking them successfully. We have older PVC doors from the higher price range and, whilst more sturdy (reinforced with metal) they are looking a tad ratty.
The PVC windows screeched with wind whistling through, like semi-detached tinnitus.
Thirdly and finally, the long term investment: powder-coated aluminium frames. If you are fed up with sanding down wooden frames and considering the easy option of PVC or coated aluminium, particularly for a wide opening with multi-folding doors. Consider whether PVC is up to the task of substituting for the wall of your house.
Stand back and look through closed doors at the difference between PVC and aluminium - it is very noticeable. With PVC, there are windows of scenery between wide areas of plastic (two frames together might measure between 8 and 10 inches, 20 to 25cms) so the doors block up to 20 per cent of the potential view and light-source.
Aluminium frames on bifolding doors from manufacturer SunSeeker Doors, being stronger, are only about 2 inches or 5 centimeters. The profile is also considerably smaller so the doors use far less space than PVC or wood when folded back. For those who want color, several options are available to order, the most popular (after standard white) are: Grey, blue, green, brown and silver. Aluminium Frames are more expensive than cheap PVC or wood but prices are comparable with the better quality PVC doors. Is aluminum worth the extra cost? If you want the "wow" factor, strength, longevity, maximum living space and the most panoramic view,Yes.